Weatherstripping Checklist
- Door jamb installed and not cut short – installed jamb to jamb. No gaps on sides more than 1/8″. 1/8″ gaps commercial caulked
- Waterproofing + adhesive agent installed under the threshold to prevent water leakage.
- Proper concrete screws secured to slab with liquid nail under threshold
- Ensure that the door meets the threshold and lines up properly.
- No light visible on sides of door jambs or at threshold (this is not negotiable)
- Locks operating properly and dead bolt throws fully (a full throw dead bolt clicks when fully thrown [turned]) and the door should not require pushing against or pulling to line up with the deadbolt strike plate if installed properly.
- The door will likely be removed during this installation process and cut down for the weatherstrip at bottom of door to function properly. Ensure that all hinge pins are resecured if removed via hinge pin. Some more heavy duty commercial doors will require the removal of the hinge itself – ensure all screws are re-installed.
- Ensure that at the completion of the subcontractors job he has not caused damaged to any other subcontractors work. This could be damage to the finished floor inside, the paint or stain on the door and jamb, and other surrounding items which could incur damage.
You should have no problem finding a local subcontractor that can install just the weatherstrip throughout your house for around $100 – maybe $300 depending on the number of exterior doors you have. You can also choose to self perform and do it yourself for around $30 to $100 for the cost of materials. If hiring a subcontractor make sure he is responsible for supplying all material to complete the threshold, door jamb weatherstrip and the door sweeps. You should also consider having money set aside to replace the sweeps on any exterior doors that came from the supplier with sweeps installed. Not that the sweep is of poor quality, but it is likely damaged from being closed on top of extension cords, etc.








