- Compare solid-sawn joist layout (celing- & floor-joist) with framing plan. Confirm crown up, dimension, grade, orientation, and span.
- Use of 2×4 material as a substitute for finger joists is permitted as long as the span does not exceed 3 feet.
- Joist ends must be secured in one of five methods:
- Direct-to-topplate – minimum 2 nails per connection. Joist must bear on topplate a minimum of 1 1/2″
- Joist hanger(s) – hanger size must meet manufacturer’s specifications. Never bend hangers to alter its dimensions or to make a hanger fit. Tack the joist into place, then install hanger with appropriate length, type, and number of nails.
- Note: Ceiling joists may be toe-nailed to beams or other joists only when their length does not exceed 5 feet.
- Ledger board (ceiling joists only) – secure 2×2 flush with bottom of beam and of sufficient length to span the number of joists to be installed. Nailing pattern must be same as joist spacing with one additional nail spaced 2″ either side of joist location. End notched joist is then toe-/end-nailed into position.
- Note: Acceptable only for ceiling joists lengths not to exceed 10 feet.
- Pressure blocking (ceiling joists only) – joists are toe-/end-nailed into position, then blocks having the same dimension as the joists are secured to the supporting beam in every other joist bay. Lastly, the joists are side-nailed through each pressure block.
- Note: Acceptable only for ceiling joists lengths not to exceed 10 feet
- An exception to the non-load bearing restriction is the installation of 2×12 finger joists (less than 4 feet in length) when floor joists run parallel to the exterior wall. Installation must still follow the installation pattern above
- Joist-to-rafter connection – minimum 5 nails per connection. Install a 2-foot reinforcing block (2×4 lumber acceptable) alongside the rafter directly under the connecting joist end.
- When ceiling joist taper cuts are necessary, make sure the length of the taper cut does not exceed 3 times the depth of the member, and the extreme end of the joist remains at least one-half the member’s original depth.
- Floor joist ends cantilevered out beyond exterior walls must be secured with either 2x12s, engineered 2×12 dimensioned rimboard, or 2 sets of 2×4 banding.
- Maximum cantilever is equal to the depth of the lumber (i.e., 2×12 – 11 1/4″). Any cantilever in excess of this rule must be approved by the architect or structural engineer.
- All loose joist ends must be tied to gable studs, endlapped to other joists, secured to beams, solid blocking or a rat run. Loose joist ends must not project beyond the farside of the topplate more than 6 inches.
- Note: Floor joist ends terminating at stairwells must be secured with either a 2×12 rimboard or solid blocking.
- When floor joist span exceeds 14 feet, solid blocking is required every 8′ of span. Blocking may be either 2×10 or 2×12 material staggered for ease of end nailing (1×4 diagonal bridging may be substituted)
- When ceiling joist span exceeds 14 feet, strongbacks are required every 8′ of span
- Typical construction – one 2×4 fastened horizontally to tops of ceiling joists using 2 nails. A 2×6 stiffener is required alongside the 2×4 secured every 16 inches.
- Both strongback ends must be secured to either: a beam, topplate, rafter, or gable stud/cripple
- Splices in strongback length must bridge 3 joists (or 4 feet)
