Drywall Inspection

by Build Your Own Home · 6 comments

in Drywall

Drywall Inspection

The finished quality of your drywall will have a large impact on the beauty of your home. That is why the drywall inspection and drywall punch-out will be such critical stages in your construction process. Your drywall inspection should be a three stage process. You need to implement a drywall inspection before drywall, so you can check for potential problems that may cause poor drywall quality. You then need to perform a drywall inspection after the sheetrock has been hung. And you should then follow up by performing a drywall inspection after the completion of the tape & float stage of the sheetrock installation.

  • Drywall InspectionBefore Sheetrock
    • During the drywall inspection, you need to check locations where framing members, electrical and insulation were removed- to stock sheetrock -and make sure that they have been replaced and/or reinstalled.
    • Confirm that all of your tubs and shower pans have protective liners installed to prevent damage by drywall contractors.
  • Drywall Inspection After Drywall is Hung
    • Inspect drywall installation for proper nailing. Typically 7 nails/screws per stud on walls and 8 nails/screws on ceiling joists.
    • Confirm during drywall inspection that there is no bowed sheetrock on walls or ceilings.
    • Confirm during drywall installation and drywall inspection that the drywall joints have been staggered.
    • Check that all electrical outlets, switches and fixture boxes have been cut out and are not oversized.
    • During drywall inspection you should check your medicine cabinets, chimneys, water shut-offs, and attic stair openings to confirm that they have been cut out.
    • Check tub and shower areas have been drywalled, then had fiber-cement backerboard installed and stripped for bullnose tile, as required.
    • Ensure during the drywall inspection that all fiber-cement backerboard has been secured along all edges.
    • Check corner bead nailing and ensure all outside corners are plumb.
    • Check all vertical joints over doors hit in the middle of the door.
    • Check there are no popped nails, and all nails have been spotted at least twice.
    • Check ceiling lines are straight. (especially where sloped ceilings meet walls).
    • During the drywall inspection you need to check all vertical wall angles are plumb and straight.
  • Drywall Inspection After Tape & Float
    • During the drywall inspection, check around all pipe stub-outs for tape and float.
    • Check tape and float of ceilings extends completely to walls.
    • Check no ridges are visible at taped joints after skimming.
    • Check during drywall inspection that there are no ripples in tape.
    • Check finish work at cased openings, window returns, enameled walls (i.e. bathrooms), and around electrical outlet and switch boxes.
    • Check at drywall inspection phase that all window returns have finished to bottom of windows.
    • Check that walls behind mirrored doors have been finished to the floor.
    • Reconfirm during drywall inspection that ceiling lines are straight. (especially the sloped ceilings)
    • Check inside of return air space is sheetrocked (when it is located on an outside wall)
    • Check all sanding completed at end of drywall inspection
    • Check under all tubs and shower pan protectors for damage and no nails left in them.
    • Also check during the drywall inspection that slab and floors have been scraped and swept clean by drywall contractor.
drywall inspection

{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }

Beards Town September 7, 2011 at 11:35 pm

Drywall Finish / Texture (Altoona, Newton, Pella) -

Allan Wilkins September 8, 2011 at 12:41 am

About $125.00 a sq.ft. around here.

rick September 8, 2011 at 7:30 pm

Sand down most of them where their going to be almost flushed with each other. Spread new cement after the freshly sand stones that have been sanded, vacuumed or brushed clean. Your trying to prep your wall to be flushed because you are going to put insulation up with evenly measured 2 x 4 installed waiting for sheet rock to be hung, taped and mudded then sanded where its tape connections are. You are going to have a beautiful living usable area. Sheet rock not that expensive. Punch holes to thread rolmex thru enabling at least 3 as outlets in each room or 1 outlet per wall. You are going to be happy. Before you work-contact your landlord and make a deal that you are willing to invest your time and will only take cost of materials off the rent creating him another but legal room with your plans in hand, steps taken and etc…receipts of materials with be waiting for review of landlord at any given time. HOW COULD THE LANDLORD REFUSE FREE LABOR?

rick September 10, 2011 at 12:35 am

If you build a wall in a basement, it must be "floated", meaning there is a 3" gap between the wall and the baseplate. If you do this, if the soil should expand, the slab will rise up, and the rigid wall will lift the upstairs off the foundation! The 3" gap will allow that much movement in the slab. Check the building codes before doing this.

This is all pretty expensive for a renter.

renovateceiling September 10, 2011 at 1:49 am

Drywall Contractor San Francisco Ca, Sheetrock Contractor San Francisco Ca, Sheetrock Installation San Francisco Ca,

stroymdom October 10, 2011 at 1:05 pm

Well explained to.

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