basics of framing a home
When building your own home, reaching the framing stage of construction is a great milestone. Typically you being framing your home when you complete the foundation, the driveway, and have established a foundation of drainage for your yard. Establishing the drainage of your yard may not seem important, but you do not want to skip this step. Avoiding this step will result in a yard full of mud and a miserable work experience for anyone you subcontract. Also, when you start framing your home it is a good idea to have established erosion control to prevent erosion into the street. You should also have an established area for trash before the start of the wood framing of your home.
When building your own home, chances are you have worked with local suppliers to create a material estimate and budget for the framing material which will be used in your home. Material for this stage of construction will likely be seperated by the supplier into two seperate deliveries. You have the Frame I Material and Frame II Material. Depending on the size of your home you may end up having both material packages delivered at the same time. This is to be decided between you, your supplier, and your framing contractor.
During the framing of your home, the first lumber item to be used as well as noticed by you is going to be the pressure-treated lumber that is used as the bottom plate of both interior and exterior walls. The next framing item you will notice being used is likely going to be the finger-jointed 2×4′s (which are 92 5/8″ in length/minimum stud grade) which are used for all 8′ wall studs. The framer will then use random length 2x4s (#3 SYP/KD19) for topplates, floor joist banding, bracing, furrdowns, etcetera. Your lumber package will also include quantities of 2×6′s, 2×8′s 2x10s, and 2x12s of #3 SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) and are provided for use as headers and joists. (Note: Architectural or engineering requirements may stipulate use of higher grade materials). All rafters are going to be out of 2x6s, 2x8s, 2x10s, or 2x12s all depending on what the architect has specified for that particular area and depending on the load bearing qualities of the roof and floor above. When framing your home, it is not uncommon to substitute fur for SYP when rafter lengths exceed 20′ in length. All non-engineered structural beams will be grade #2 lumber. Floor joists (and rim boards) are to be 2x12s. Ridges, hips, and valleys are to be made from 2x8s or 2x10s. For spacers in headers, flitch beams, and side reinforcing panels at box windows — 7/16s inch 4×8 sheets of OSB/plywood should be used. Stairwell landing subfloors are to be constructed out of CDX plywood. Also, where allowed and to save money, unused and leftover foundation formb oard
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probably a collection of different learning materials – like a textbook, a few workbooks, and an audio tape. Something like that.
ah okay thank you.
Paslode 30 Degree Cordless Framing Nailer 900420 (nice) -
Use a framing hammer you wacko!