Typically, during home construction, the bricklaying phase of construction will be following the Insulation Inspection approval.
The material for this job consists of brick, mortar sand and galvanized steel lintels. Ensure the quantity of brick for the job matches the take-off (understand your suppliers packaging process, i.e. – brick company #1 has 464 bricks/cube while brick company #2 packages 366 bricks/cube) and also confirm that the material delivered is as ordered according to your original selection. The bricklaying contractor should be responsible for providing all wall ties, his own masonry saw, and the cleaning materials to finish the job and acid wash the brick.
The bricklayer then moves the brick from the delivery location, and stacks it around the house. All windows will be covered with poly, and mortar sand will be spread evenly over all flatwork before you start bricklaying the house. He marks-off, then sets 2×4s (story poles) at corners to help determine his courses. He mixes the mortar using: 3 parts sand to 1 part mortar (approximately 15 to 18 shovelfuls per bag). Bricklaying begins across the front of the house first, with the sides and rear (as required) being completed last. Brick should be layed per the elevation plan including columns and wing-walls (no extra payment is made for these items). At the end of each day the brick veneer will be brushed to remove excessive mortar and allow for easier cleaning at job completion. All broken brick and excess mortar is picked up and piled at the curb by the bricklaying contractor. The flatwork is cleaned of mortar sand and mortar splatters. All brick will be cleaned with the appropriate cleaning solution and water. Payment is made to bricklaying contractor when all items are 100% complete.
Bricklaying & Masonry Checklist
- Check all wall ties (22 gauge thickness), are nailed to each exterior stud before starting. Spacing should allow for 5 to 6 ties per 8 feet of vertical wall.
- Check all brickwork is according to the Elevation Detail
- Check the poly at brick ledge, at corners, and under columns has been tucked under 1/4-inch to leave a clean edge (brick mortar should not bond to slab). Any exposed poly shall be cut away.
- Check excessive mortar has not accumulated in the void between the exterior wall sheathing and the brick veneer.
- Check for weep holes every 33 inches including over all doors and windows with metal lintels. Minimum width- 3/16-inch.
- Check all corners and walls are plumb
- Check for a 1/4″ to 3/8″ wide expansion joint at least every 25 feet, where required, and set 18 inches from any window.
- All expansion joints will be free of mortar.
- Check for adequate mortar at windows, doors, and siding.
- Check window rowlocks fully extend under each window frame and are sloped to drain away from the window.
- Check all hosebibs have been “pointed-up” (mortar filled in around) and are secure
- Check soldier course is flush with the brick frieze at the soffit, Each soldier must be plumb.
- Check condition of cornice work around columns & arches for damaged or missing material
- Test mortar for strength. Except for surface particles, the mortar should not fail when scraped with a key or nail.
- Check all mortar joints are raked and clean
- Check for the filling of all beeholes
- Check weep holes are clean and serviceable.
- Check brick has been cleaned of dirt and mortar. (Note: Was only with the proper cleaning solution, as recommended by the brick manufacturer.)
- Check that all flatwork has been cleaned and is scraped free of mortar splatters.
- Check all waste brick and mortar has been piled in designated trash area.
- Check all window frame tracks are clean and free of mortar residue.
- Check brickwork at front porch and/or mailbox, if applicable. Cover all porch brickwork after cleaning.
- Check interior of home for cleanliness and debris left by brick crew. (Usually the dirtiest of all contractors)
- Stack all excess brick neatly in the garage.
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