When building a house, it is important to go through a thorough process of checks and balances to ensure that you are following the proper procedures. That is part of this websites job, to help you along the way. Which is why we have put together an inventory of checklists to help you do just that. Here you will find the checklists for subdivisions with culverts, and culvert installation.

1. Confirm city, county, and/or developer requirements with regard to culvert and in-turn construction, if any.
2. As soon as possible after you start construction, determine the in-turn location, coordinate for culvert pipe installation, and in-turn construction.
   1. Know who installs culvert piping in your area (i.e. city, county, developer, or independent contractor)
   2. Determine materials to be used (e.g., cement-stabilized and flatwork sand, metal or concrete culvert pipe).
   3. Determine liability for failed piping after installation (i.e. terms of guarantee – 1 year minimum, and integrity of concrete pipe sections).
3. Coordinate for construction of headwalls (if necessary) and carstops at sides of in-turn at the time of in-turn fabrication.
   1. Headwalls must be of sufficient dimension to prevent excessive erosion above and surrounding the culvert pipe.
   2. Carstop dimensions at either side of the in-turn (i.e. directly above the culvert pipe) should be 4 to 6 inches in height and 36 to 50 inches in length. A 6-inch width provides sufficient driver warning of proximity to culvert edge, while leaving sufficient in-turn width for maneuvering.
4. Set culvert piping using cement-stabilized sand embedment to prevent movement.
5. Cover culvert piping with bank sand to reinforce and support the driveway in-turn to be constructed above.
6. Set form lumber for in-turn placement (Obtain inspection approval, if required)
7. Place in-turns with carstops, and headwalls (if required)

concrete culvert

As you embark on your journey to build your own home, it is important to understand exactly what you will be getting yourself into, which is exactly what this website aims to help with. In this section we will be talking about communities and subdivisions that have culvert drainage, and how this can affect your construction project.

Communities having culvert drainage can be found in urban, as well as rural areas. These locations may be unincorporated and have little written engineering guidance, or they may be situated within a city-jurisdiction having specific requirements demanding strict compliance. For this exact reason, it is essential that all construction related individuals be well versed in what is to be expected in terms of compliance, especially your concrete contractors and foremen.

Home construction in communities employing roadside culvert drainage adds unexpected issues and scheduling adjustments. Access to the lot as early in the job start process as possible, is of paramount concern. Consultation with the governmental agency having jurisdiction and/or developer having control over residential construction is a must. Determination of existing drainage plans, in-turn construction, materials, and culvert depths ensures compliance with mandatory requirements expected in the community.

If culvert depths are not specified on a written plan, determine the existing culvert depth at each side of the lot where it enters and exits the property (Some municipalities may require elevation benchmarks to be set and used). Using this information, calculate the rate of fall based upon lot width and identify the location for the driveway in-turn.

If unspecified, use a culvert pipe diameter measuring a minimum of 18 inches. Use piping of sufficient length to construct an inturn of necessary width above it, as well as inhibit soil erosion at the pipe ends (community restrictions often drive the width of driveways – at least 12 feet minimum). If the pipe extends less than one foot on either side of the in-turn, construct a concrete headwall extending from the in-turn and surrounding the culvert pipe.

On adjoining lots, and if your budget permits, consider setting a second temporary culvert pipe. This allows for lot access after flatwork has been placed. Upon job completion the second culvert pipe can be removed and used again.

See the Checklist in the Preparing Building Site section to have a working list during construction

Below you will find a thorough example of a typical frame inspection that needs to be completed when building your own home. It covers all aspects of the “pre-drywall” inspection that you should perform, and if properly done, will save you time in money during construction.

FRAME INSPECTION

• Headers sized correctly – trimmers in place. Bearing
• Wind bracing – all exterior corners, 25′ on center, secured, no “K” bracing, end gables
• Additional studs below beams. Triples bolted/glued
• Door/window trimmers – installed, proper quality, not too short.
• Joist hangers – proper size, not missing nails, not missing, double angled.
• Stairs – supported, treated below stringers.
• Purlin – correct span, all splices, properly braced, correct angles, sized to rafter, 12″ max span
• Ridges supported – both ends, 12″ on center, splices done properly if required
• Hips supported – both ends, 12″ on center, splices done properly if required
• Valleys supported – both ends, 12″ on center, splices done properly if required, 2 studs/blocks to slab
• Ridges – 2 studs/blocks to slab
• Hips – 2 studs/blocks to slab
• Valleys – 2 studs/blocks to slab; block laydown
• Fireplace – secured, nailers, clearance, raised (if necessary)
• Double joists below water heater / furnace
• Manufactured joist components – squash blocks, blocking panels, rimboards, joist hanger and finger joist blocks installed
• Manufactured joists not damaged – flanges, webs, holes not too large or mislocated
• Plates – nuts / washers, secured within 6″ of splice, and exterior doors, aligned. Treated
• Proper stud spacing – improper splices 36″ required, furred ducts not missing, 16″ OC or 24″ OC as required. Stud blocking tight.
• Walls and columns plumb, cross blocks, twisted. Interior/exterior
• Three blocks at all corners and T’s
• Ceilings installed. Spacing correct and plane properly
• Stiffbacks – blocked and tied, spliced correctly if required, 2×6 upright, installed, not incomplete
• Rat runs – tied at one end, not missing
• Fire stops – stairs, breezeway, dropped ceilings, furr-downs, raked walls, vertical chases all complete
• Sub-floor – Not deteriorated, not loose, no voids, no uneven, 3×3 at top of attic access for landing
• Rafter/joists – Correct span and spacing
• Collar ties – 1/3 distance below ridge, 2×6 used on over 10′ spans – every other rafter
• Chimney – roof clearance, 2 corner studs to slab, flue clearance, secured, baloon framed.
• Bridge blocks – installed, continuous, staggered
• Cabinet blocks – 2×6 required – at 34″ – 54″ – and 84″
• Short walls plumb and square and braced 4 ft on center
• Medicine cabinet – present, 3″ from corners
• Showers vertically blocked for green rock
• Garage door trimmers – insalled, bottom cut at 45 degree, treated or cedar, plumb and not twisted
• Tubs, showers, shelves all installed and level
• Dead wood present – ceilings, angled corners, windows, and columns
• Shower recess aligned with plates, 1″ plate, 1/2″ slab
• Window margins – plumb/level, sides and head, continuous wood product shims

PLUMBING INSPECTION

• No leaks – in supplies or drains
• Pipes inside of walls – not bowing out
• Nail guards installed – All piping, electrical panel attached in garage, freon lines, HVAC and water heater drains all with proper nail guards
• Toilet flanges centered and secured
• Water heater vent secured, 1/2″ clearance at combustibles
• Gas Lines – Installed to all gas appliances. Less than 5′ from appliances
• Shower heads secured with weatherproof screws, 6′6″ above finished shower floor typical
• Stub out for sink drains secured
• Hose bib flanges flush with slab and level
• Clean out flush with slab
• Drain arms have visible fall, blocked within 1/2″ of elbows
• Stud shoes required on all bored studs that exceed the acceptable limit

HVAC INSPECTION

• Primary drain – Fall away from unit, runs to vanity sink, bend required to reduce noise
• Secondary drain – Installed, falling away from pan, exit over window or exterior door
• Furnace vent – Installed, secure, 1″ to 2″ clearance
• Exhaust fan – tubes not crushed or parting – vented to exterior
• Ducts – Installed, secured, complete, supported. Blocked on 3 sides
• Dryer vent – Installed, secured, no breaks, 8″ bottom above brick ledge
• Refrigerant box blocked on 3 sides

ELECTRIC INSPECTION

• Wiring complete – In boxes or stapled to frame inside walls
• Smoke detector – Wired to bedrooms and outside bedrooms
• Garage door openers – Plug and control wires installed
• Security pre-wire – Complete, plug at control box
• Bath fan – Installed, blocked square with walls, taped, wired
• Service – Run to panel location, secured. Home runs through plate, nail guards
• Phone / CATV – Installed, not touching vent pipes, not in return air chase
• Ground wire run – Service plumbing
• Wires insulated from water supply lines. Sleeves through brick
• Recess fixture too close to combustibles

INSULATION INSPECTION

• Sheathing attic space
• Sheathing pony walls
• Block joint spaces
• Seal exterior sheathing
• Block vertical chases

CORNICE/DECKING

• Siding – Installed, smooth, nail butt joints, nails flush and snug. No staples. Z-flashing 4×8, not bowed, not wavey
• Fascia – installed, straight, nailed properly, shingle mold. Touches shingles, level eyebrow
• Soffit – Installed, tight joints, complete, primed
• Brick frieze – Installed, level and plumb, complete
• Soffit vents – Installed, tight joints, smooth, continuous sides/rear, louvered fronts
• Windows – Installed, flanges nailed 16″ on center sides, 12″ on center top and bottom, plumb and level
• Windows flashed – not missing, 1/4″ overhang, above wood trim
• Exterior doors – Installed, long screws used, operate correctly, construction locks installed
• Sheathing – Nailed 12″ on center perimeter, 12″ on center in field, no bridge nailing, installed, repair, no staples, raw wood covered
• Pony brick ledges – inside and outside corners, windowsill
• Sheathing penetrations – sealed with metal tape
• Decking – Installed, level with shingle mold, nailed properly
• Decking support – Clips, 2 each with 1/2 clips per unsupported sides, nail 6″ on center butt joints, 12″ on center in field
• Poly on all windows

JOB SITE INSPECTIONS

• Address clearly posted – required for city inspections
• Job site cleaned – exterior and interior
• Trash bin present – bin and barrel
• Post Tension Cables stressed
• Quality finish on foundation. Honeycombs grouted
• Form material removed
• Safety rails installed on second floors
• No broken glass (safety issue)

ROOFING INSPECTION

• Shingles dried-in, straight, and flat
• Roof jacks – Installed, (3) nails, vent min. 6″ above boot
• Cap and collar installed, metal jack, water heater, and furnace
• Flashing – roof/chimney flashing installed, cap, spark arrestor
• Sky lite – Installed, tried in, level, square, plumb
• Roof plane – no sags or crowns
• Ventilation – ridge vents, air hawks and no dead space in attics

Please understand that this is not a “complete” inspection as should be performed by city and third party inspectors. While this is thorough and should be performed before pre-drywall, it is also important to get an inspection from a third-party. But for the purpose of building your own home, this list should give you insight into the depth of this stage (which is the most important.) If you have any questions regarding this list or particular items, feel free to ask them in the comments below.

When you decide to build your own home, you need to make sure you have a thorough understanding of the framing process. This is a very critical stage in the construction of your home. Mistakes here can be both detrimental to the schedule as well as costly. Attached with this page is one example of how inspectors will go through the home and do an inspection on the frame and quality. It includes a checklist of the following:

• Complete the entire checklist before proceeding
• Perform the inspection using the checklists provided in other framing sections of this website, a 4-foot or 6-foot level, a framing square, a 25 ft tape measure, spray paint, black permanent marker, a framing plan, and a 6-foot ladder.

LOT

• Ensure, as is, existing grade will provide no more than 8″ of slab exposure in siding areas & 6″ of slab exposure in brick areas.
• Drainage swales contoured to ensure 6″ drop at 10 feet from slab (6″ in 5 foot on restricted side lot lines).
• Driveway barricade, trash barrel, silt control in place, and address posted visibly
• Verify jobsite postings (building permits, address, etc)

• Check slab finish in vinyl floor, ceramic tile areas; as well as exposed garage and porch areas to ensure contractor as left an acceptable finish
• Re-confirm slab is level under bottomplates
• Confirm all wall bottomplates are pressure-treated, secured to slab, and limits lateral movement

• Randomly check plan dimensions (doors & window placements, kitchen window centered on sink, red-lined changes, etc)
• Check walls, corners, and ledges to ensure they are level
• Check for square and plumb in highly visible locations. Check for bowed conditions.

• Review stud spacing, windbrace installation (nailing pattern and saw cuts), furr-out requirements, and wall blockings
• Inspect for shim requirements at plates, headers, and ledges.
• Confirm cutting & notching studs is within acceptable limits
• Check for proper bearing of structural materials.

• Compare actual framing with ceiling joist framing plan and floor joist framing plan (counts and orientation)
• All lumber properly graded, and sized for purpose and span. Bracing and blocking installed, as required.
• Check for proper bearing of all structural materials

• Compare actual framing with rafter framing plan (counts and orientation)
• All lumber properly graded, and sized for purpose and span. Bracing and blocking installed, as required.
• Cutting and notching studs within acceptable limits. Check nailing patterns
• Check for proper bearing of the structural loads
• Check all hip rafter splice configurations. In accordance with local codes. (Skinned both sides)

• Check dimensions and construction methods and materials
• All lumber is properly graded, and sized for purpose and span. Bracing and blocking installed as required
• Cutting and notching within the acceptable standards

If you are in the process of building your own home, then quality control is most likely an issue that you are going to take very seriously. And even more importantly, when you are at the framing stage of construction, which is the structure and integrity of your entire house, it is going to be very important to do a strict quality control process and go through every detail with a fine comb. After all, it is YOUR home that you will be living in, and you need to make sure it is of a quality that will last you and your family for many years to come.

Cutting & Nothing Standards – Studs

• 

  diagram on how much stud you can notch in a frame

  Notches in studs are restricted to 25% (1/4″) of the stud width at exterior walls and at interior load-bearing partitions. Notches may be 40% of the stud width in non-loadbearing partitions.

• Holes bored in studs may be as large as 60% of the stud width at interior non-bearing partitions and where studs are doubled. Not more than two successive double studs may be bored at that size. In all other studs, hole size is limited to 40% of the stud width. In any case, holes must not be near any other cut or notch.

Cutting & Notching Standards – Joists & Rafters

• The notching of ceiling and floor joists is not permitted (Exception: end notches for hanging joists on a ledger board)
• Nothing at the extreme ends may not be more than 1/4 the joist depth.
• Holes bored in joists or rafters must not exceed 1/3 the depth of the member and must not be closer than 2 inches to the top or bottom edge of the member.
• 

• diagram of boring a hole in a framing stud

• Ridge board must be at least same depth (or greater) as the plumb cut end of intersecting rafters.
• Check rafters installed 24″ O.C., or per plan. (i.e., 12″, 16″, 19.2″, or 24″)
• Rafters should be structurally sound, crown up, yet cause no noticeable hump in plane of roof
• Inspect all rafter cuts
  • Plumb cuts should bear fully against ridges, hips, and valleys. Conditions where a rafter cut is too short or only a small portion bears on the structural member (heel or toe) must have a 3′ scab secured and braced at the affected end.
  • Birdsmouths should bear snug at topplate with minimum-to-no saw overrun(s) and create a consistently straight ceilingline.
• Rafter tail length (horizontal plane measured from the outside edge of topplate) should permit eaves construction having a soffit depth of 12-24 inches, or per plan (typical box window overhang a minimum of 6 inches).
• Check collar ties on every other rafter (secure each connection using 3 nails), within 18 inches of bottom of ridge board. Use random-length 2×4 only.
• Purlins to be same dimension lumber as the rafters being supported
• The location of purlins to be per plan and in accordance with maximum allowable unsupported span tables in the residential code (or every 8′ of rafter span).
• Purlin brace every other rafter (secure each connecting using 3 nails). Check brace angle and bearing. Alternate purlin bracing may be used, as required.
  • Purlin can be notched into each brace, or bear on a 2′ long 2×4 block – teed into top of brace (secure using 5 nails)
  • Brace should be oriented at approximately 90 degree angle to the supported rafter(s)
• Splice common & jack rafters over a purlin with 4′ of overlap between top & bottom segments. If a purlin is not conveniently aligned, add a brace directly under the splice (ensure the limits specified in the maximum allowable unsupported span tables of the residential code are not exceeded)
• Splices in ridges, hips and valleys shall be gusset-reinforced scissor splices. Requirements include:
  • 24″ scissor-splice, nailed top & bottom
  • Minimum 4-foot OSB/Plywood gussets (minimum thickness – 7/16″) cut to the same depth as the rafter, on both sides of splice
  • Braced directly under the splice and supported by bearing wall or structural beam
• Ridge board to be braced at ends and where possible. Brace to be T-blocked entire length
• Hips exceeding 14 feet in span must include a midspan brace. Any brace exceeding 6-feet in length must be T-blocked 2/3 the length.
• Braces are required under valleys anytime the member crosses over a topplate or structural beam (Any brace exceeding 6 feet in length must be T-blocked 2/3 the length). Cripples and studs under valley bracing to be doubled.
• Terminate ceiling joists (interfering with valley rafter installation) short of the valley. Header off to ceiling joists on either side. Use joist hangers and consider doubling up joists, if necessary
• Rafter bracing
• Check no roof members braced to ceiling joists or strongbacks over living space
• Note: Roof structure can be braced directly to garage ceiling joists only. A 2×8 or 2×10 layed flat and spanning a minimum 3 joists must serve as the base.
• While engineered beams can be installed flush on the topplate, solid-sawn beams must be elevated (floated) a minimum 1 1/2″ above the ceiling line, whenever bracing to a wall is not possible.
• Note: Floating beams may be installed with an orientation parallel, perpendicular, or on a diagonal to ceiling joists. Roof loads must transfer from each beam end to suitable structure which in turn transfers these forces to the slab/soil compression zone. When a beam is elevated excessively high – 2×4 outriggers (diagonal braces) may be added to either side of the beam to provide lateral stability during installation of the beam
• Note: An exception to the float beam restriction exists for beams suspended over garage areas. Solid sawn beams over garages may be installed flush with the topplate to minimize the size of tapered end cuts at exterior walls.
• Any brace exceeding 6 feet in length must be T-blocked 2/3 the length.
• Palm bracing is accepted practice as long as the palm provides secure, reliable bracing to all supported members.
• Gables
• Furr out 16″ O.C. or per plan in siding areas
• Gables over 4′ in height require a stiffener or strongback at cripples, with a diagonal brace secured to a structural beam or topplate
• Note: Gable structure can be braced to garage ceiling joists only
• Detached Garages & Covered Walks
• Build to the same standards and tolerances as the house framing
• Construct fireblock between home & detached garage. Locate at garage end or mid-span to home
• Separation of walkway beams must not exceed with the width of the sidewalk (typically 4-feet) between the house and detached garage. This ensures each midspan support column will rest on the flatwork below to fully support, stabilize and transfer roof loads to the soil below.

• Stairs
  • Constructed using three 2×12 stringers notched at 7 3/4″ rise and 10″ run. Stringers to rest on pressure treated plate and secured to double header at topplate.
  • Treads constructed using two 2×6s secured with glue and either ring-shank nails, screw-shank nails, or deck screws
  • Ensure 1 1/2″ space between stairwell walls and stringers/treads/risers
  • Tread nosing of 1/2″ to 1″ required. Ensure top step (at 2nd floor subfloor) has nosing, i.e., no ledger board/furring strip.
  • Landings to be constructed using floor joist framing rules (i.e., no ledger boards).  A layer of 23/32 CDX plywood to serve as landing surface.
  • Framed half-walls at top of stairs shall incorporate a square column from floor to ceiling.
  • Note: Two 2×4s with spacer made of 7/16″ OSB sandwiched between.
• Fall Protection Requirements
  • Required when soles of worker’s feet are above 6 feet
  • Guardrails are required at 2nd floor exterior wall studs when the stud spacing is greater than 18″ O.C.
  • 2nd floor framed window openings require 2×4 barriers secured parallel with subfloor at 39″+(-) 3″
  • Handrails required up side of stairwells
  • Safety railing system at landings and open areas above 6 feet. A 42″ top rail, midrail, & 4″ toeboard attached to support posts (mounted in SafetyBoots) spaced at 8′ O.C.  Must resist 200 lbs lateral force. Refer to manufacturers installation guide to install Safety Boots.
• Subflooring
  • Check material condition of subfloor in each room. Check for level. Humps, dips, holes, soft areas, and significant weather damage require corrective action.
  • All subfloor panels to be secured with glue and either ring-shank nails, or deck screws. Material must be installed with a 1/8″ gap between 4×8 sheets.
  • Fastener schedule: 6″ O.C., every floor joist
  • Unsupported subfloor joints (saw cut without tongue-in-groove reinforcement) perpendicular to joists shall be supported with solid blocking.

• Structural Beams
  • Confirm location and configuration of supplemental beams on floor- and ceiling joist plans
  • All solid-sawn beams must be grade #2 lumber
  • All solid-sawn beams must be glued and nailed
  • Any solid-sawn beam having 3 or more members must be glued, nailed and bolted at 2-foot on center staggered. No portion of any bolt hole can be nearer than 2″ (top or bottom) to the edge of the beam.
  • Check there is a double solid-sawn or engineered beam under all second-floor walls.
    • Note: Bearing walls supported by floor joists or beams may be offset laterally from the bearing support below a distance equal to the depth of the joist
    • Note: Double joists may be separated to permit installation of piping or vents, as long as full-depth solid blocking is fastened between members every 4 feet.
  • Ensure multiple studs are installed under all beams and matching the width of the beams.
  • Make sure any modifications to engineered beams (i.e., taper cuts, end notches, midspan notches, or bored holes) are in accordance with the limits specified in the manufacturers installation guide. Each beam manufacturer has different criteria.
    • Note: Proper bearing length for an engineered beam, while never less than 1 1/2″, may exceed the 3 1/2″ width of a 2×4 topplate. Reference the manufacturers installation guide for required end bearing.
  • When a engineered beam headers into a second engineered beam, ensure a rated beam hanger is used for the connection. Do not rely on end-nailing, a site-built or modified hanger, or lag screws.
• Flitch beams will be constructed in accordance with specifications from the Typical Detail Sheet
• Ensure beams, joists, and strongbacks do not stick up or protrude through the plane of the roof.

• Compare solid-sawn joist layout (celing- & floor-joist) with framing plan. Confirm crown up, dimension, grade, orientation, and span.
• Use of 2×4 material as a substitute for finger joists is permitted as long as the span does not exceed 3 feet.
• Joist ends must be secured in one of five methods:
  • Direct-to-topplate – minimum 2 nails per connection. Joist must bear on topplate a minimum of 1 1/2″
  • Joist hanger(s) – hanger size must meet manufacturer’s specifications. Never bend hangers to alter its dimensions or to make a hanger fit. Tack the joist into place, then install hanger with appropriate length, type, and number of nails.
    • Note: Ceiling joists may be toe-nailed to beams or other joists only when their length does not exceed 5 feet.
  • Ledger board (ceiling joists only) – secure 2×2 flush with bottom of beam and of sufficient length to span the number of joists to be installed. Nailing pattern must be same as joist spacing with one additional nail spaced 2″ either side of joist location. End notched joist is then toe-/end-nailed into position.
    • Note: Acceptable only for ceiling joists lengths not to exceed 10 feet.
  • Pressure blocking (ceiling joists only) – joists are toe-/end-nailed into position, then blocks having the same dimension as the joists are secured to the supporting beam in every other joist bay. Lastly, the joists are side-nailed through each pressure block.
    • Note: Acceptable only for ceiling joists lengths not to exceed 10 feet
    • An exception to the non-load bearing restriction is the installation of 2×12 finger joists (less than 4 feet in length) when floor joists run parallel to the exterior wall. Installation must still follow the installation pattern above
  • Joist-to-rafter connection – minimum 5 nails per connection. Install a 2-foot reinforcing block (2×4 lumber acceptable) alongside the rafter directly under the connecting joist end.
• When ceiling joist taper cuts are necessary, make sure the length of the taper cut does not exceed 3 times the depth of the member, and the extreme end of the joist remains at least one-half the member’s original depth.
• Floor joist ends cantilevered out beyond exterior walls must be secured with either 2×12s, engineered 2×12 dimensioned rimboard, or 2 sets of 2×4 banding.
  • Maximum cantilever is equal to the depth of the lumber (i.e., 2×12 – 11 1/4″). Any cantilever in excess of this rule must be approved by the architect or structural engineer.
• All loose joist ends must be tied to gable studs, endlapped to other joists, secured to beams, solid blocking or a rat run. Loose joist ends must not project beyond the farside of the topplate more than 6 inches.
  • Note: Floor joist ends terminating at stairwells must be secured with either a 2×12 rimboard or solid blocking.
• When floor joist span exceeds 14 feet, solid blocking is required every 8′ of span. Blocking may be either 2×10 or 2×12 material staggered for ease of end nailing (1×4 diagonal bridging may be substituted)
• When ceiling joist span exceeds 14 feet, strongbacks are required every 8′ of span
  • Typical construction – one 2×4 fastened horizontally to tops of ceiling joists using 2 nails. A 2×6 stiffener is required alongside the 2×4 secured every 16 inches.
  • Both strongback ends must be secured to either: a beam, topplate, rafter, or gable stud/cripple
  • Splices in strongback length must bridge 3 joists (or 4 feet)

When building your own home, one of the items you are going to want to check thoroughly during the framing stage of construction is that the fire- and draft-stops are installed as required.

Acceptable fire-stop material includes: 1/2″ sheetrock, 2x dimensional lumber with joints backed by 2x lumber; one thickness of 23/32″ thickness structural panel

Checklist for fire- and draft-stop when building your own home.

• 9-foot walls and taller – solid blocking in every studbay of the upper half of the wall
• Furrdowns – typical location is at kitchen cabinet tops when the venthood is ducted to the outside
• Return air shafts -
• Fireplace & chimney – install at first- and second-floor topplates.
• Cricket must be fireblocked from the attic.
• Maintain 2″ between chimney flue and combustibles
• Stair well – Concealed spaces between stringers at top & bottom of run
• Vents, pipes & ducts (at ceiling and floor level)
• Covered walk between home and detached garage – at garage end or mid-span to home.