1/2″ Drywall Reveal Used At Baseboards

drywall reveal | drywall design

Baseboard drywall reveals are a great way to add design and style to your home.

The following images are an example of a 1/2″ drywall reveal that has been added above baseboards.

In this particular example of using drywall reveals for design elements, they have chosen to go with a 12″ MDF Painted baseboard that has a half inch drywall reveal above the baseboard and then drywall.

These photos below of the drywall reveal demonstrate what it begins to look like once the baseboards are installed below the drywall reveal. This drywall reveal is a Z shaped drywall reveal that creates this 1/2″ reveal between the doorjambs and baseboards. This is a very modern use of drywall reveals.

drywall reveal | drywall design

drywall reveal | drywall design

drywall reveal | drywall design

post tension cables

Post-tensioned concrete incorporates 1/2 inch steel cables to provide internal stress as a means of transferring or counteracting eternal loads a concrete slab is designed to support. Slab design is based on a soil analysis accomplished before any home construction should begin. The foundation plan and beam detail sheet provided by the slab engineer outlines the method for constructing a foundation capable of withstanding the forces and loads expected for residential housing. The slab engineering firm performs a cable inspection after the cables have been stressed, then issues an inspection compliance letter and FHA stress certificate. You should retain these documents for your record.

CHECKLIST FOR POST TENSION CABLES

Checklist after Slab-Placement

• Call the post-tension company on the day of slab placement to coordinate cable-stressing dates.
• Track the days since slab placement and ensure the cables and stressed within 7-10 days. The live ends will not be cut until cable elongation and condition have been inspected and approved by the slab engineering company

Post Tensioning Process

• When possible observe cable stressing while the post-tension contractor is on site. Inspection and approval is essential!
• Visually inspect each anchor to determine if the wedges are seated evenly
• Check the elongation at each cable. Before stressing, the post-tension cable company should paint the exposed portion of the live end (where it protrudes from the anchor). After stressing, this identifying mark is the basis for measuring the amount of cable elongation. Approximate elongation should be 1 inch for every 12 feet of cable length between anchors.
• Contact the slab engineering firm to follow-up on the scheduling of a cable inspection. Occasionally the post-tension contractor forgets to coordinate.

After Inspection

• Check all live and dead end locations to ensure the contractor has cut all cables, neatly grouted each hole and cut all exposed nails protruding from the slab
• Ensure all debris is removed from around the slab. Make sure all trash is in the trash barrel and construction debris is piled at the front of the jobsite.

The day following slab placement you should have the concrete finishing contractor return to strip the form boards from the slab. The form boards must be stripped, all honeycomb and poorly formed slab corners should be grouted, and the jobsite free of debris before you proceed with building your home and prior to the contractor being paid.

Checklist for Stripping Forms of Lumber Following Slab Placement:

• All form boards, stakes, and kickers are removed from around the slab and placed on the slab in the garage area. Leave brick ledge floats in place long enough for the finishing contractor to grout all bad edges, honeycomb & corners.
• Inspect the slab grouting job performed by the concrete finisher, then remove float boards.
• Check for slab damage caused during form board removal. Do not allow the use of pry bars to strip form boards in front of the garage, the rear entry, or areas receiving exterior siding.
• Ensure all useable lumber is stacked neatly in the garage area. The framer can cull out material useful in constructing headers, braces, etcetera.
• Check all catheads have been removed and disposed of properly. Serviceable catheads can be collected for reuse and stored in a container behind the construction office.
• Ensure all debris is removed from around the slab. The tractor man will need access to cut the driveway and entry walk, as well as complete the rough grade.
• Make sure all trash is in the trash barrel and construction debris piled at the front of the job site.

build your own home

Like other chemical reactions, hydration of cement depends on temperature and time, as well as the presence of moisture. As concrete hardens, it becomes stronger, resists damage, and increases in durability. Hydration of cement stops when concrete dries. This means concrete must be kept from drying for as long as possible to reach its greatest strength. Warm, moist conditions are nearly ideal for concrete placement and curing. However, when the weather is hot, dry & windy, a number of potential problems arise.

Some of the more critical problems include:

• More water is needed to make concrete workable
• Warm concrete dries faster
• Concrete may set too fast
• Handling, finishing, and curing may be more difficult and may require more effort
• Concrete contracts more as it cools if its temperature is high
• Plastic shrinkage cracking is more likely to occur because the surface dries before curing begins
• Concrete will be more porous and srink more because more water must be used in the mix

The statement, “start curing concrete immediately” cannot be overemphasized. Curing must begin as soon as placement and finishing is complete. If concrete surfaces dry before the concrete hardens, or is alternately wet and dried, cracks may appear on the surface. To prevent cracks, steps can be taken to reduce evaporation during finishing and thereafter.

All materials needed for protection from early drying and curing should be available and ready for use before the concrete arrives, for simplicity & ease of application during finishing and thereafter.

• Sprinkling or fog spraying – Sprinklers must be setup to ensure complete slab or flatwork coverage to keep the surface wet. Keep water pressure and flow long enough to avoid surface damage.
• Straw or hay – Wet loose materials such as straw or hay can be used, however they can discolor the surface. Keep material moist & prevent from blowing away in windy conditions.
• Poly sheeting – Plastic film must be at least 4 mils in thickness. For hot weather, white colored poly is preferred for its heat-reflecting quality. Remember, any poly is better than none at all. Wrinkles in the poly will result in discoloration of the concrete. Ensure it is secure at all edges to prevent it from blowing off/away.

1. Check plans for correct elevation (roof lines, bay and box windows, entry configuration, covered porches, etc)
2. All first floor wall bottomplates of interior and exterior walls are pressure treated lumber
3. Porch columns sitting on pressure treated lumber of elevated brace designed to prevent water from penetrating
4. No untreated lumber in contact with concrete
5. Bottom plate lines up with framing chalk lines. Pay particular attention at bottom plates near door openings.
6. Bottom plates at exterior walls secured using mudsill anchor (if required by municipalities), secured with 10d 1 1/2″ nails, when possible.
   

   musill anchor

7. If using mudsills – ensure that all nailholes receive a nail. Typically two nails are driven into the side of the bottomplate, while 4 nails are secured at the top.
8. Interior wall bottom plates secured using concrete nails, masonry nails, or cut nails every 4 ft.
9. Confirm topplate in each room is straight and level. Check looking from the opposite side of the room to see if deviations are visually apparent.
10. Drilling or notching of exterior and wall-bearing topplates by more than 50% of plate width require securing a 16-gauge galvanized repair strap to each plate and to each side of the opening with no less than six 16d nails.
11. Confirm all structural elements are adequately supported from the highest point directly/indirectly to the slab using accepted construction methods.
12. Confirm a stud is placed under all splices in the bottom layer of topplate.
13. Confirm stud spacing. Typically 16″ on center
14. Check all room dimensions per the framing plan & any supplemental detail sheets.
15. Check stud security. Randomly inspect by twisting with hand.
16. All mid-wall and corner Ts blocked 3 times using 12″ scrap pieces of 2×4s.
    

    mudsill anchor

17. Check for opposing windbracing on each exterior wall and typically every 25′ of wall lengths.
18. Windbracing free from material defects and installation damage
19. Check Rough Opening Dimensions (see post on dimensions)
20. Check shower rod blocking (center above tub/shower units – 30″ out from rear corners).
21. Toilet paper holder blocking: 2′ A.F.F. and 2′ out from corner
22. Check tub and shower nailers installed over top edge of tub & shower pan and vertically along sides at front.
23. Ensure any partition wall between separate tub and shower extends a minimum 4″ beyond front of tub & shower pan allowing sheetrock, tile, and baseboard attachment.
24. Check vertical framing for plumb. Use 6′ or 8′ level to inspect window framing, sheetrock openings, furrdowns, sheetrock corners, box windows, door openings, walls, and pony-walls.
25. Check for square. Inspect all corners with particular attention at entry door spaces, inside corners at cabinet spaces/countertops, tub and shower spaces, furrdowns, furrouts, and box windows.
26. Use 6′ or 8′ level to check for bowed studs, especially at long walls.
    

    top plate repair strap

27. Inspect nailing pattern on 2x dimensional lumber. An acceptable standard would be 1 nail for every 2″ of lumber depth (ie – 2×8 requires 4 nails per connection) and every 16″ o.c., unless otherwise specified by engineer.
28. Check header and beam sizes. On two story homes at 1st floor doors and windows – mandatory 2×12 headers.
29. Headers smaller than 2×12 lumber require cripples below the topplate (in same intervals as stud spacing).
30. Recheck window sills are level and jack studs plumb. (bedroom window sills no higher than 42″ A.F.F.
31. Box windows must be secured into exterior wall framing with OSB/plywood side panels fully sandwiched between studs.
32. Box windows must be secured into exterior wall framing with OSB/plywood side panels, fully sandwiched between studs.
33. Deadwood (non-structural sheetrock nailers) to be installed extending out above topplates at corners & along the length of the plate at locations where floor- & ceiling-joists parallel the plate
34. Houses substituting an AC closet in place of the linen closet, ensure a 2×8 band is installed surrounding topplate of vertical chase to prevent blown insulation from falling into the closet space

box window framing details

wood framing dimensions

These rough opening dimensions are typical, however it is possible that in your case the openings are supposed to be a different size. Verify each item against these dimensions or your dimensions which should supersede.

• Attic ladder at 25 1/2″ x 54 1/2″ (Cannot be installed over a 1-story attached garage, unless the attic space above is isolated by a firewall from the rest of the attic area.)
• Medicine cabinets are typically 14″ x 20″ (check with cabinet manufacturer as some dimensions may vary). Ensure medicine cabinet is 48″ above finished floor and at least 3″ from an inside corner)
• Doors (door width + 2 1/2″)
• Windows and patio doors (check framing plan for dimensions)
• Bedroom window sills not more than 42″ A.F.F. and all window sills level
• Mirrored closet slider doors – exact size
• Fireplace openings (check fireplace manufacturers specifications)
• Fireplace furrout (depth of fireplace + 1″ for floor mounted fireplaces)
• Kitchen window – centerline of window must line up with proposed center of sink
• Built-in wall oven – check framing plan or architect’s detail sheet
• Vanity spaces – 24″ minimum depth, cabinet + 1 1/2″ width.
• Bathtub – 32″ depth and 60 1/2″ width.
• Garage door – 7′ 1″ opening height.
• Single-door opening: 16′ 3″, using a 16′ 9″ header truss (truss should not be notched or cut, spliced or otherwise altered)
• Double door opening: 8′ 3″, using two 2×12 headers set at a center post
• Furrouts and plant shelves – check against framing plan dimensions
• Kitchen cabinet furrdowns – Width to extend over all continuous connected cabinets (to include all corner wraps) + 1″ overhang at ends. Depth is cabinet depth + 1″ overhang at front.
• Framed stair walls – 42″ above nose of stair tread
• Framed guardrail height at landing or 2nd floor – 42″
• Kitchen peninsula wall under flush countertop – 34 1/2″

framing contractor

When building your own home, managing your framing contractor will help save you time and money. But you also need to do your homework and make sure that you are not going to be hurting your framing contractors ability to complete his job to a satisfactory level. So before providing your house plans to the framing contractor, you need to to a thorough review of your home plans. You need to review framing dimensions against foundation dimensions. You need to review the intended elevation of the home for any discrepancies with what you had intended to build.  If there are any known or intended changes they need to be redlined on the plan so that your framing contractor does not make any mistakes or waste unnecessary time.

When working with the framing contractor it is also important to set up expectations of work and performance. You should make sure that he is aware that he is responsible for culling out usable lumber from the foundation form boards located in the garage for use during framing. The remaining unused material he should put in the trash pile. He then moves forward with the framing phase. He will clean the foundation of dust, snap chalk lines, and begin the framing of your home. He is also to be responsible for securing any required hurricane or tornado bracing that was required by the engineer and/or city. This is not your foundation contractors responsibility to come back to the job site to secure these straps. He will then begin the framing.

It is important during the management of this process to follow up on what is in agreement to be done. At no point should payment be made until the framing contractor has satisfactorily completed his agreed upon work.

Typical Color-Coded Utility Markings

PINK – Survey markers

RED – Electric powder lines or conduits

ORANGE – Communication lines

YELLOW – Gas, oil, & petroleum lines

GREEN – Storm & sanitary sewer lines

BLUE - Potable water lines

basics of framing a home

When building your own home, reaching the framing stage of construction is a great milestone. Typically you being framing your home when you complete the foundation, the driveway, and have established a foundation of drainage for your yard. Establishing the drainage of your yard may not seem important, but you do not want to skip this step. Avoiding this step will result in a yard full of mud and a miserable work experience for anyone you subcontract. Also, when you start framing your home it is a good idea to have established erosion control to prevent erosion into the street. You should also have an established area for trash before the start of the wood framing of your home.

When building your own home, chances are you have worked with local suppliers to create a material estimate and budget for the framing material which will be used in your home. Material for this stage of construction will likely be seperated by the supplier into two seperate deliveries. You have the Frame I Material and Frame II Material. Depending on the size of your home you may end up having both material packages delivered at the same time. This is to be decided between you, your supplier, and your framing contractor.

During the framing of your home, the first lumber item to be used as well as noticed by you is going to be the pressure-treated lumber that is used as the bottom plate of both interior and exterior walls. The next framing item you will notice being used is likely going to be the finger-jointed 2×4’s (which are 92 5/8″ in length/minimum stud grade) which are used for all 8′ wall studs. The framer will then use random length 2×4s (#3 SYP/KD19) for topplates, floor joist banding, bracing, furrdowns, etcetera. Your lumber package will also include quantities of 2×6’s, 2×8’s 2×10s, and 2×12s of #3 SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) and are provided for use as headers and joists. (Note: Architectural or engineering requirements may stipulate use of higher grade materials). All rafters are going to be out of 2×6s, 2×8s, 2×10s, or 2×12s all depending on what the architect has specified for that particular area and depending on the load bearing qualities of the roof and floor above. When framing your home, it is not uncommon to substitute fur for SYP when rafter lengths exceed 20′ in length. All non-engineered structural beams will be grade #2 lumber. Floor joists (and rim boards) are to be 2×12s. Ridges, hips, and valleys are to be made from 2×8s or 2×10s. For spacers in headers, flitch beams, and side reinforcing panels at box windows — 7/16s inch 4×8 sheets of OSB/plywood should be used. Stairwell landing subfloors are to be constructed out of CDX plywood. Also, where allowed and to save money, unused and leftover foundation formb oard

Wallout and Enamel Painting in your Home

The house is ready for wallout when trim & cabinets and unfinished stair parts have been installed.

The following recommended materials are to be supplied by the paint contractor for Wallout & Enamel:

• Interior Caulk (Jones-Blair Power Point 200 Caulk)
• Interior Crown Mold (230 DAP Caulk or Gardner Gibson 550 Caulk)
• Interior Putty (Crawford’s Putty)

Interior Primers

• Walls & Ceilings (when required) (Jones-Blair Kwal Profinish PVA#(880)
• Trim Doors & MDF (Jones-Blair Gemini Lacquer Undercoat #U8(79)
• Front Door Interior – Wood or Fiberglass
• Closets (when required) (Jones-Blair Kwal Profinish PVA#(880)
• Interior Walls & Ceilings (Jones-Blair ProMax Wall Paint – Flat) pCI’ selection
• Interior Trim and Doors (.Tones-Blair Decorator Semi-Gloss Alkyd Enamel)
• Interior Closets (Jones-Blair Superkote Semi-Gloss Latex Enamel)
• Interior Cabinets per stain & finish selection
• Jones-Blair Gemini Water White Lacquer Sealer
• Jones-Blair Gemini Water White Lacquer Finish
• Interior Front Door. Hand Rail, Countertop Edge
• Jones-Blair Semi Transparent Oil Stain
• Last-n-Last Gloss Marine Varnish is the topcoat

Thinners

• 152 Paint Thinner _. thinner for all oil base products
• 154 Lacquer Thinner — thinner used for lacquer stains and lacquer topcoats
• Water (clean) – thinner used for all latex products
• 9479 Lacquer Retarder – thinner used for lacquer stains & LJCquer topcoats

Prior to painting the house, it is to be completely swept and cleaned to eliminate any dirt or dust from being blown into the finished paint. Kitchen and bath Iloors arc covered to prevent paint or stain overspray.

The painter sprays lacquer undercoat on all doors, door trim, basehoard, crown mold. window stools. and bathroom cabinets per subdivision. All nail holes are puttied. All joints are caulked. The painler then sprays all walls and ceilings with latex wall paint. Next, all doors. cabinets. and trim work are sanded and sprayed with enamcl. All overspray areas are to be cut in with latex wall paint.

All stain work is completed at this time.